Sunday, July 1, 2012

EQ Guidline

This Is Just a Guideline! Low Bass: anything less than 50Hz This range is often known as the sub bass and is most commonly taken up by the lowest part of the kick drum and bass guitar, although at these frequencies it's almost impossible to determine any pitch. Sub bass is one of the reasons why 12" vinyl became available: low frequencies require wider grooves than high frequencies - without rolling off everything below 50Hz you couldn't fit a full track onto a 7" vinyl record. However we do NOT recommend applying any form of boost around this area without the use of very high quality studio monitors (not home monitors - there is a vast difference between home nearfield and studio farfield monitors costing anywhere between £5,000 and £20,000). Boosting blindly in this area without a valid reference point can and will permanently damage most speakers, even PA systems. You have been warned! Bass: 50-250Hz This is the range you're adjusting when applying the bass boost on most home stereos, although most bass signals in modern music tracks lie around the 90-200Hz area with a small boost in the upper ranges to add some presence or clarity. Muddiness/irritational area: 200-800Hz The main culprit area for muddy sounding mixes, hence the term 'irritational area'. Most frequencies around here can cause psycho-acoustic problems: if too many sounds in a mix are dominating this area, a track can quickly become annoying, resulting in a rush to finish mixing it as you get bored or irritated by the sound of it. Mid-range: 800-6kHz Human hearing is extremely sensitive at these frequencies, and even a minute boost around here will result in a huge change in the sound - almost the same as if you boosted around 10db at any other range. This is because our voices are centred in this area, so it's the frequency range we hear more than any other. Most telephones work at 3kHz, because at this frequency speech is most intelligible. This frequency also covers TV stations, radio, and electric power tools. If you have to apply any boosting in this area, be very cautious, especially on vocals. We're particularly sensitive to how the human voice sounds and its frequency coverage. High Range: 6-8kHz This is the range you adjust when applying the treble boost on your home stereo. This area is slightly boosted to make sounds artificially brighter (although this artificial boost is what we now call 'lifelike') when mastering a track before burning it to CD. Hi-High Range: 8-20kHz This area is taken up by the higher frequencies of cymbals and hi-hats, but boosting around this range, particularly around 12kHz can make a recording sound more high quality than it actually is, and it's a technique commonly used by the recording industry to fool people into thinking that certain CDs are more hi-fidelity than they'd otherwise sound. However, boosting in this area also requires a lot of care - it can easily pronounce any background hiss, and using too much will result in a mix becoming irritating. ---------------------- Kick Drum Any apparent muddiness can be rolled off around 300Hz. Try a small boost around 5-7kHz to add some high end. 50-100Hz ~ Adds bottom to the sound 100-250Hz ~ Adds roundness 250-800Hz ~ Muddiness Area 5-8kHz ~ Adds high end prescence 8-12kHz ~ Adds Hiss Snare Try a small boost around 60-120Hz if the sound is a little too wimpy. Try boosting around 6kHz for that 'snappy' sound. 100-250Hz ~ Fills out the sound 6-8kHz ~ Adds prescence Hi hats or cymbals Any apparent muddiness can be rolled off around 300Hz. To add some brightness try a small boost around 3kHz. 250-800Hz ~ Muddiness area 1-6kHz ~ Adds presence 6-8kHz ~ Adds clarity 8-12kHz ~ Adds brightness Bass Try boosting around 60Hz to add more body. Any apparent muddiness can be rolled off around 300Hz.If more presence is needed, boost around 6kHz. 50-100Hz ~ Adds bottom end 100-250Hz ~ Adds roundness 250-800Hz ~ Muddiness Area 800-1kHz ~ Adds beef to small speakers 1-6kHz ~ Adds presence 6-8kHz ~ Adds high-end presence 8-12kHz ~ Adds hiss Vocals This is a difficult one, as it depends on the mic used to record the vocal. However...Apply either cut or boost around 300hz, depending on the mic and song.Apply a very small boost around 6kHz to add some clarity. 100-250Hz ~ Adds 'up-frontness' 250-800Hz ~ Muddiness area 1-6kHz ~ Adds presence 6-8kHz ~ Adds sibilance and clarity 8-12kHz ~ Adds brightness Piano Any apparent muddiness can be rolled off around 300Hz. Apply a very small boost around 6kHz to add some clarity. 50-100Hz ~ Adds bottom 100-250Hz ~ Adds roundness 250-1kHz ~ Muddiness area 1-6kHz ~ Adds presence 6-8Khz ~ Adds clarity 8-12kHz ~ Adds hiss Electric guitars Again this depends on the mix and the recording. Apply either cut or boost around 300hz, depending on the song and sound. Try boosting around 3kHz to add some edge to the sound, or cut to add some transparency. Try boosting around 6kHz to add presence. Try boosting around 10kHz to add brightness. 100-250Hz ~ Adds body 250-800Hz ~ Muddiness area 1-6Khz ~ Cuts through the mix 6-8kHz ~ Adds clarity 8=12kHz ~ Adds hiss Acoustic guitar Any apparent muddiness can be rolled off between 100-300Hz. Apply small amounts of cut around 1-3kHz to push the image higher. Apply small amounts of boost around 5kHz to add some presence. 100-250Hz ~ Adds body 6-8kHz ~ Adds clarity 8-12kHz ~ Adds brightness Strings These depend entirely on the mix and the sound used. 50-100Hz ~ Adds bottom end 100-250Hz ~ Adds body 250-800Hz ~ Muddiness area 1-6hHz ~ Sounds crunchy 6-8kHz ~ Adds clarity 8-12kHz ~ Adds brightness ----------- 50Hz 1. Increase to add more fullness to lowest frequency instruments like foot, toms, and the bass. 2. Reduce to decrease the "boom" of the bass and will increase overtones and the recognition of bass line in the mix. This is most often used on bass lines in Rap and R&B. __________ 100Hz Increase to add a harder bass sound to lowest frequency instruments. Increase to add fullness to guitars, snare. Increase to add warmth to piano and horns. Reduce to remove boom on guitars & increase clarity. __________ 200Hz 1. Increase to add fullness to vocals. 2. Increase to add fullness to snare and guitar (harder sound). 3. Reduce to decrease muddiness of vocals or mid-range instruments. 4. Reduce to decrease gong sound of cymbals. __________ 400Hz 1. Increase to add clarity to bass lines especially when speakers are at low volume. 2. Reduce to decrease "cardboard" sound of lower drums (foot and toms). 3. Reduce to decrease ambiance on cymbals. __________ 800Hz 1. Increase for clarity and "punch" of bass. 2. Reduce to remove "cheap" sound of guitars __________ 1.5KHz 1. Increase for "clarity" and "pluck" of bass. 2. Reduce to remove dullness of guitars. __________ 3KHz 1. Increase for more "pluck" of bass. 2. Increase for more attack of electric / acoustic guitar. 3. Increase for more attack on low piano parts. 4. Increase for more clarity / hardness on voice. 5. Reduce to increase breathy, soft sound on background vocals. 6. Reduce to disguise out-of-tune vocals / guitars __________ 5KHz 1. Increase for vocal presence. 2. Increase low frequency drum attack (foot/toms). 3. Increase for more "finger sound" on bass. 4. Increase attack of piano, acoustic guitar and brightness on guitars. 5. Reduce to make background parts more distant. 6. Reduce to soften "thin" guitar. __________ 7KHz 1. Increase to add attack on low frequency drums (more metallic sound). 2. Increase to add attack to percussion instruments. 3. Increase on dull singer. 4. Increase for more "finger sound" on acoustic bass. 5. Reduce to decrease "s" sound on singers. 6. Increase to add sharpness to synthesizers, rock guitars, acoustic guitar and piano. __________ 10KHz 1. Increase to brighten vocals. 2. Increase for "light brightness" in acoustic guitar and piano. 3. Increase for hardness on cymbals. 4. Reduce to decrease "s" sound on singers. __________ 15KHz 1. Increase to brighten vocals (breath sound). 2. Increase to brighten cymbals, string instruments and flutes. 3. Increase to make sampled synthesizer sound more real. -------------------------------------- 80hz - rumble of the bass 100hz - thump of the kick 200hz - bottom of the guitar 250hz - warmth of the vocal 350hz - bang of the snare 400hz - body of the bass 500hz - clang of the high hat 600hz - clang of the cymbals 800hz - ping of ride cymbal 1000hz - meat of the guitar 1200hz - body of the snare 1400hz - meat of the vocal 1600hz - snap of the kick/plectrum on guitar (attack) 2500hz - wires and snap of snare 3000hz - presence of the vocal 4000hz - ring of ride cymbal/top end of bass guitar 6000hz - sizzle of the high hat 7000hz - sizzle of the cymbals 8000hz - top end of the kick 9000hz - brightness on snare and cymbals 10000hz - brightness on vocal 12000hz - air on vocal 14000hz - air on cymbals

What Is Mastering?

One of the most commonly asked questions in the music industry is "what is mastering?" What is mastering? In one sentence, mastering is the final step in the song making process that is "supposed to" bring your song up to its highest quality level possible. I say "supposed to" because the finished product of each mastering engineer is going to be different. Some are more talented than others and spend more time on (actually care about) your project, which will yield much better results. I say highest quality level "possible" because if you upload a song that is distorted and poorly mixed, the finished product after mastering will sound "better," but it cannot sound "great."

Best Vocal Microphone For Your DAW Home Studio

I get this question everyday! "Which microphone do you believe is the best" By the end of the day it honestly is all up to personal preference, but I am here today to share my personal thoughts on the great debate!


Out of all the components in the home recording studio, microphones offer the most choices and opinions on which ones are the best. Since this is a home recording studio article, we'll stay under $1,000 with our recommendations.

The good news is every mic we recommend here sounds good. The bad news is they all sound different. The same mic even sounds different depending on who's using it (male, female, tenor, bass, etc.). Some mics have a sharper EQ type sound, the tube mics add harmonics to the vocal which gives it warmth, the shure handheld mics are kind of in the middle of sharpness and warmth.

Technically, you can get a decent to great sound out of any of these mics. If the vocal track is recorded clean and mixed well, it will sound good.

Remember, compression, EQ and effects are eventually added to the vocal track, so you're not necessarily stuck with what the mic gives you during recording. One thing you'll find is it's easier to make a warm mic recording sound sharp using EQ and effects, than it is to make a sharp EQ mic recording sound warm.

VOCAL MICROPHONES

Here are a few of our vocal mic recommendations for a home studio:
$999 AKG C 414 XL II 9-Pattern Condenser Mic - This mic is an all-around classic performer. You can record vocals and acoustic instruments with it. It's a clear true sounding mic. It does not add warmth like a tube mic.
$699.00 Rode K2 Tube Microphone - If your looking for a warmer sounding mic for your vocals, this is a great tube mic for the price.

$99 Shure SM58 Dynamic Handheld Microphone - Another classic vocal mic. Millions sold! For the price, you can't beat it. This mic doesn't have the high EQ added to it. If you need a warmer mic but can't afford a tube mic, this will do.

$99 Shure SM57 Cardioid Dynamic Microphone - This mic is a great instrument microphone, especially for snare drums, toms, and guitar; but will also double as a good vocal mic.


Remember, when it's all said and done, all that matters is the sound of your recording. You want your vocal track to sound great using a mic that fits the singer's style. We've recorded loud rock and roll singers who just didn't sound right using a $4,000 mic, but sounded excellent using the $99 Shure SM57. Steven Tyler (Aerosmith) always records using a handheld mic. He's done pretty well with them!

Saturday, June 30, 2012

Cheapest DAW Home Recording Studio

This article will give you a basic overview on creating a solid DAW (digital audio workstation) home recording studio, on a budget. Our personal recommendations throughout this section are for reasonably priced items that will render stellar quality. Here are the basic components of a DAW home recording studio: Computer DAW Software Audio Interface (With Pre Amp) Speakers Piano Keyboard Soundware or Sampler Software Effects Software And/Or Effects Cards Microphone(s) Optional (not essential): Pre Amp (If Audio Interface Doesn't Have One) Control Surface (Hardware Mixer Board) Studio Monitor Control Center